Destinations, Training & Racing

Just Do Diablo: A Quick and Dirty Report on Running the East Bay Area’s Best Mountain

5 Comments Posted by: Sarah Lavender Smith, October 4, 2011

[Updated as of 2/10/12: Check out these recommended upcoming trail races on Diablo: April 21 Diablo Trails Challenge by Brazen Racing to benefit Save Mount Diablo, July 7 Mt. Diablo Trail Run by Inside Trail Racing, and Sept. 15 Diablo Trail Run by Coastal Trail Runs. All three events offer varying distances, 50K and shorter.]

Last Friday I spent the better part of the day running over and around one of Northern California’s most spectacular and perhaps under-appreciated mountains: the double-peaked oasis in suburbia known as Mount Diablo. Its trailhead is a mere half-hour from my home, yet I make it over there only a couple of times each year to run. Diablo tends to cross my mind as an afterthought—an image in the rear-view mirror while Mount Tamalpais beckons across the bay.

But every time I do Diablo, I want to return for more. The mountain rises from a couple hundred feet above sea level to 3849 feet, revealing views that on clear days stretch some 200 miles and glimpse the Sierra. From wide-open fire roads to shady single-track, Diablo offers an abundance of diversity in terms of terrain and wildlife. In addition to the usual suspects like deer, hawks and coyote, I’ve spotted a few bobcats, numerous tarantulas and clusters of ladybugs out there.

iPhone self-portrait on the summit during a recent solo run up Diablo

Coming up on Sunday, November 6, is one of my favorite events on the mountain: the Diablo Trail Adventure Half Marathon/10K/family hike to support Save Mount Diablo. This year, SMD celebrates 40 years of preserving open space and fighting suburban sprawl. The group’s hard work has increased the amount of protected open space from less than 7000 to more than 100,000 acres.

I have run the Diablo Trail Adventure numerous times and am reprinting a race report below from one of the more memorable years. I also recommend SMD’s 50K in the spring. Or, you can pick up a map from the Mount Diablo Interpretive Association and do some or all of the route I did the other day (much of which covers the half marathon route):

  • Start at Castle Rock Park Trailhead in Walnut Creek
  • Head out on the Briones-Mt. Diablo Regional Trail
  • Go up Wall Point Road
  • Drop down to Rock City for water
  • Go up, up, up the Summit Trail to the Summit
  • Back down to Devil’s Elbow
  • Round the peak counterclockwise on North Peak Trail, Prospector’s Gap, Meridian Ridge Road, Deer Flat Road, all the way to Juniper Campground for water
  • Backtrack to pick up Burma Road. Stay on Burma all the way down until left on Buckeye Trail
  • Right on Stage Road and all the way back to Castle Rock through Pine Canyon. Total mileage: 25

That’s just one of countless worthwhile routes. Starting at Mitchell Canyon Trailhead in Clayton is my other favorite option, but it takes longer to drive there.

Running near Oyster Point on Mount Diablo during a 50K in 2009.

I lucked out with mild temperatures, dry footing and calm wind while running there last week. But Diablo’s weather can range from snowy to scorching, and it’s famous for wild winds and gooey mud.

I wrote the report below in November of 2008, the one year I opted to do the Trail Adventure’s 10K instead of half marathon, because it was my first race back after months off to heal a broken foot. I’m still debating whether to do the half marathon this November 6, but chances are I will.

The 2008 Mount Diablo Trail Adventure

(or: How Sarah Started Barefoot Running Before It Was Trendy)

I was in the middle of a 10K race on Mount Diablo that felt like a nightmare. My feet were weighed down, I kept slipping and almost falling, and I was reduced to running in slow motion as though sloshing through waist-high water. The nightmare’s monster had a three-letter name: MUD. It grasped my soles and kept adding more and more clumps of clay until the bottom of each shoe was caked with at least six inches and five pounds of dark, sticky, cement-like soil. Halfway, around mile 3, I was in the lead but my closest competitor caught up. Our duel in the dirt would come down to which one of us could master the mud.

Near the start of the 2008 Diablo Trail Adventure.

I didn’t expect the race to be dramatic. I had chosen Save Mount Diablo’s Trail Adventure as a low-key, below-the-radar return to racing—my first race in five months, since the broken foot in June.

We took off on the dirt Stage Road along Pine Creek. The area felt wonderfully familiar; I love the shade of the oaks we run under and the creek crossings we hopscotch over. A downed tree forced runners to line up and take turns bending over to thread the needle through horizontal branches. The footing was fine in this first stretch, but then as we split off from the half-marathoners and turned onto the big connector hill toward Wall Point Road, I spotted mud ahead of me and another woman close behind. I ran up the steep hill, pulling ahead of a pack of about five guys. We left the forest and entered the rolling meadowland of Macedo Ranch, the final three miles of the 10K. And that’s where the mud monster started to attack.

My mud-caked shoes on Diablo.

I have conquered mud in the notoriously muddy Catalina Island and Golden Hills marathons, but never have I encountered mud this gruesome. As the conditions went from bad to worse, I kept cursing my shoes. They were old and worn out, and their knobby bottoms gripped the dirt. I’d love to be done with them, just ditch them then and there. A-ha! It would be a gamble to do what I was thinking of doing, but what’s the worst that could happen if I took off my shoes? My feet would hurt. So what? Then I’d have a legitimate excuse to limp home and end this sorry excuse for a run.

I barely stopped my stride and didn’t bother untying the laces; I yanked one off, threw it to the ground, yanked the other off, chucked it next to the first one, and got right back to running with my socks still on, not looking back at the runners behind me. I felt like Clark Kent ripping off his suit or Brandi Chastain ripping off her shirt—I broke free, here I go!

Halfway through the race, the shoes came off.

A few steps into it I realized my feet actually felt good. The mud formed a smooth, springy footing, firm enough for running, like on a beach right next to the water’s edge. I pulled farther ahead of the woman behind me and reeled in a guy. The next mile and a half I ran as hard as I could, on hills that felt like the surface of a cloud.

I wish it could’ve ended at mile 5.5, but in the final three-quarters mile, the mud from the meadow gave way to a dry and pebbly road. Then it turned to sharp gravel. I thought of people who walk on shards of glass or hot coals—their trick is to go fast, becaue if you slow down, then you get poked and burned—so I sprinted and winced the whole way to the finish. I couldn’t believe it—I actually won! I was first female and third overall in just under 52 minutes.

My family showed up to surprise me at the finish. My daughter was the first to notice my stocking feet and ask, “Where are your shoes?” My husband said, “Are you insane?”

I didn’t feel crazy—just grateful to be out there running again, injury free, and having the most ridiculous, up-and-down-and-up-again 10K ever.

Your Comments

5 Comments so far

  1. Dave Sloane says:

    Great reading this “old” report again! I, too, have many fond memories of running and cycling on Diablo. It was an integral part of my training for the Death Ride, way back in 2003. We had a couple of years of New Year’s runs up Diablo, in which we hired a stretch limo to meet us at the top and drive us back to North Gate. And, of course, I’ll always remember the time you and I did the SMD Half (2003?) when I was going through so much personal turmoil in my life. Diablo always seems to make things better…ironic name.

    • Sarah says:

      Dave, we’ve gotta run to the summit again! It’s funny, when I was going up there, I looked at the paved road and thought, “Why would anyone go up that way when there are all these trails?” and then of course I remembered the years we had fun with the group doing it.

  2. Your post reminds me of “Shoeless Joe Jackson” (the book that inspired “Field of Dreams”). Good luck on November 6th. Are you just going to start off barefoot? Haha

  3. Len says:

    cool :D I’m wondering, did you get your shoes back? if not why? :)

    • Sarah says:

      Hi Len — no, I actually didn’t get my shoes back. They were old and worn out, so I didn’t mind. However, I had a shoe ID tag on them, and about a week later I got a call from some nice woman who was concerned about my safety after she found my abandoned shoes. She very kindly mailed back the metal ID tag so I could use them on my new shoes :-)


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My 2013 Race & Family Travel Calendar

mid-February: Telluride
Way Too Cool 50K Mar. 9. Race report.
Oakland Marathon, not racing but volunteering as leader for the 3:40 pace group, Mar. 24
Lake Sonoma 50M Apr. 13. Race report.
mid-April: exploring Vancouver for Spring Break
East Bay Triple Crown Series: Tilden Tough 10M May 19, Lake Chabot Half June 2, Woodminster 9M June 16.
mid-summer: 6-day Maine biking trip and 8-day Colorado River rafting trip! Details.
Aug. 11: Skyline 50K in the Oakland hills
Pine to Palm 100M Sept. 14

My 2012 Race Calendar

Brooks Falls Trail Run 30K, Jan. 22, report & commentary
Oakland Marathon, Mar. 25, race report
Miwok 100K, May 5, Race report (it's a doozy!)
Marin Ultra Challenge 50K, June 30
Geoff Roes Alaskan training camp, July 24 - 28. Read about it.
Skyline 50K, Aug. 12. Pack training run.
The Grand to Grand Ultra, Sept. 23 - 29. Amazing.
Save Mount Diablo Half Marathon, Nov. 4.
Piedmont Thanksgiving Turkey Trot 3-mile (1st age group, 4th F).
North Face Endurance Challenge Championship 50M, Dec. 1. Race report.

My 2011 Race Calendar

Epiphany Ultra, Jan. 2. Did it! Here's the writeup.
European XC 10K in Ventura Jan. 30. Here's the writeup.
San Francisco Half Marathon, Feb. 6. Ugh, a hard one! Race report became "How to Recover from a Race that Sucked".
Montaña de Oro 50K, Feb. 13. Did it! Here's the writeup.
Oakland Marathon, March 27. So fun! My race report became a haiku.
American River 50M, April 9, race report
Santa Barbara Wine Country Half Marathon, May 7, race report
Tilden Tough Ten 10M, May 15, and the two other races in the Triple Crown trail series, too: Lake Chabot Half and Woodminster 9M. I ended up winning the women's 2011 East Bay Triple Crown trophy for the fastest cumulative time in the three events! (news blurb & pic)
Ohlone 50K, May 22, Unforgettable!
Pacing the last 25 mi of Hardrock 100 in Telluride! Here's the pace report.
Skyline 50K in Oakland Aug. 7. Bummer, no go because I'm injured.
Piedmont Fall Fest 5K Sept. 24: Placed 2nd
North Face Endurance Challenge 50M, Dec. 3. Race report.
PCTR Rodeo Beach 50K, New Year's Eve. Nice to end the year with a win! Race report.

Proud to race on the team of Inside Trail Racing. Check out their calendar of great trail races.

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